20th November – Karthakali

Good morning, good afternoon and good evening readers,

After another chaotic morning and the ditching of the rickshaw driver, I found another really lovely garden cafe. I sat for an hour and read my book because that’s what I wanted to do and it was thoroughly enjoyable. I then sat and read through all of the lovely and supportive messages that everyone has sent me after my previous post. Thank you so much everyone for the love. I really was feeling quite vulnerable and I’ll admit.. I wasn’t sure if I was cut out to be the great adventurer.

After the cafe I went and watched a show of traditional Indian dancing called Karthakali. It was very entertaining to watch and the costumes were amazing. With complete love intended, it reminded me very much of my best mate Liv getting ready for a night out in Essex. It’s funny how we focus so much on our development over centuries, but when you look back at history we are all just the same as we once were. Let me explain…

The show started with us watching a dancer apply their make up. Firstly, this was very much like watching a show of Art Attack.. where they have the super strength glue you can’t buy in the shops and the whole “Here’s one I made earlier vibe”. I struggle to do my eyeliner in a straight line let alone paint their beautiful creation. The make up ceremony reminded me alot of Liv getting ready for a night out. This consists of concentrated silence, not speaking to anyone and paying close attention to your immaculate make up, then shouting at Jamie when he tries to wind you up. Oh wait, except Jamie wasn’t there. I swear I heard his voice. I’m very comfortable in our getting ready to go out out routine, so it was nice to watch.

Next the guy lay on his back whilst this other man applied paper fins. Yes you read that right. This was much like Liv when she gets her eyelashes done by her eyelash lady. Expect this man didn’t moan about her kids or tell the boy gross stories or state the reasons why her husband’s a bastard.

What I find odd about this situation, as the flocks of people noisily fill the audience, is that it feels this scene should be silent, or at least just with Indian music, and people just watching. But all I can hear are the hoards of people behind me and those huddling round the lying boy and crouching man. All taking photographs and then sitting down and ignoring them again, as if they don’t want to enjoy the now and would rather observe it from the photographs later. Of course we all take photos and I am glad the professionals out there commit to this. But it showed me how strange some humans are in their way of observing new cultures. Some love to watch from a distance, from behind the lense. As though a metaphorical glass wall separated the two cultures. Who knows, maybe the glass wall is there? Not all get close enough to find out. And those that do, well telling others isn’t enough, they have to experience it for themselves.

During this trip I don’t just want to spend all my days looking around historical monuments and museums. Even as a history student I have to say, I’m not really that fussed. For me, these next few months are about living in the now, not learning solely about the past. I often feel pressured into doing the touristy things. But like alot of my good friends have told me, fuck that. I’m getting immersed in the culture baby.

In cultural intentions,

C x

3 responses to “20th November – Karthakali”

  1. Fantastic as normal, it must be lovely just to be out of the rat race we all live in taking time to read a book, watch a play you are living the dream for all of us! Keep it coming xxx

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  2. The makeup follows an accepted code, that helps the audience easily identify the archetypical characters such as gods, goddesses, demons, demonesses, saints, animals and characters of a story.

    Pachcha (green) with lips painted brilliant coral red portrays noble characters and sages such as Krishna, Vishnu, Rama, Shiva, Surya, Yudhishthira, Arjuna, Nala and philosopher-kings.

    Tati (red) is the code for someone with an evil streak such as Ravana, Dushasana and Hiranyakashipu.

    Kari (black) is the code for forest dwellers, hunters, and middle ground character. Demonesses and treacherous characters are also painted black but with streaks or patches of red.

    Yellow is the code for monks, mendicants and women. A warm yellow, orange or saffron typifies noble, virtuous feminine characters such as Sita, Panchali and Mohini.Men who act the roles of women also add a false top knot to their left

    A white beard represents a divine being, someone with virtuous inner state and consciousness such as Hanuman.

    Then there is the Indian music – some of it gorgeous, some of it truly dreadful. Unfortunately most of what you hear is in the latter category

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  3. The best thing about Indian music is the sense of peace that you get – when it stops

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